【禁闻】美成衣加工业流出中国 回归本土
【新唐人2011年8月3日讯】过去数十年的时间,美国的服装品牌主要依赖海外代工,包
括中国、东南亚、拉丁美洲等都曾是最受欢迎的代工地。近几年来,随着海外加工成本
的增加和美元国际汇率的降低,外包生产逐渐回归美国本土,美国的成衣加工业正在回
暖。而美国商务部报告显示,外包加工业正在流出中国。
这家位于纽约曼哈顿的制衣厂,加工高端的美国本地服装品牌,今年工厂订单上升了
25%,恢复到了金融海啸前的水平,所有曾经被裁员的工人都回来了。现在,厂里共有
八十五名全职工人,他们要在未来四周内做好11000件衣服。
纽约制衣业主乔.费若拉:"我们把自己定位成一个创新的小企业,这是赚钱的地
方,整个国家需要向这个方向调整。"
乔.费若拉(JoeFerrara)在纽约,一共开了三家制衣厂。今年的生意十分红火。费若拉
说,他已经给传统的成衣加工业找出了一个新的经营模式,而自己现在正努力于从一些
品牌商家拿到新合同,希望在业界恢复"美国制造"的声誉。
美国在今年第一季度经济增长缓慢,失业率居高不下。在经济疲软的背景下,纺织业是
为数不多的时来运转的行业。根据纺织业国家委员会报告,纺织业依靠创新保持市场竞
争力,在去年一年增加了一万个就业机会,对外出口增长了19%。
与此同时,曾经红火一时的"中国制造"却是另一番景象。香港�利华制衣�是中国深圳
的一家大型成衣厂。厂里的七百名工人,为美国的CK(卡尔文.克莱恩)和�香蕉共和
国�等知名品牌代工。廉价的劳工曾给工厂带来丰厚的利润,但是近年来,成本的不断
上涨,让厂商头痛。
利华制衣公司经理史坦利.蔡多:"如果算上人民币升值,我们的劳工费用按美元计,上
升了百分之五十。"
蔡多说,除了优化生产线的加工程序,正在考虑把工厂转移到其他地方。
利华制衣公司经理史坦利.蔡多:"短期内我们希望把中等价位的工件移到便宜的地
区,比如中国北方、西部,或者孟加拉,越南等地"
�波士顿谘询集团�预测,依照中国物价水平和通货膨胀趋势,中国劳工的工资将在未
来五年上涨80%。对于依赖廉价劳动力的代工厂来说,这是灾难性的,移出中国或许是
唯一的办法。
在中国从事律师谘询业的丹.哈瑞斯(DAN HARRIS)认为,类似6月份,农民工和警察
在广州发生的暴力冲突,显示了中共当局政策的改变。
哈瑞斯与摩尔律师楼律师丹.哈瑞斯:"当局不希望广东再从事低端工作,但在更西部
的地区,当局容忍这种工作的存在。"
哈瑞斯认为,中国因制度问题,不断发生的警民冲突,让外商担心日益激化的社会矛盾
可能引发的动荡。
美国商务部报告,今年(2011年)上半年,美国对华实际投资额下降了22%。美国服装
进口商,从越南和印尼进口的数量,比从中国进口的多,这表明外包加工业正在流出中
国。
新唐人记者宋美馨、肖�综合报导。
Outsourcing Exits China
For few decades, many U.S. clothing companies outsourced toforeign
countries, like China, Southeast Asia, Latin America.Now with the cost
increase overseas and a depreciated dollar,the production is gradually
returning to the U.S.The U.S. garment processing industry is picking up.
Dept.of Commerce reports of a decline in outsourcing to China.
A Manhattan' garment factory makes high-end brand apparels.
Its orders rose 25% in 2011, back to the levelbefore the global financial
crisis hit.Laid off workers came back, reaching 85 full-time workers.They
need to make 11,000 clothes in the next four weeks.
Joe Ferrara, Owner of Ferrara Manufacturing
Joe Ferrara has three garment factories in New York.The business has been
good this year.He has established a new modelfor the traditional garment
industry.With his business going well now, Joe tries to get contractsfrom
brand companies, restoring the "Made in US" reputation.
The U.S. economy had a slow growth in Q1,with no improvement on the high
unemployment rate.The textile industry is one of the few doing well, due to
itsinnovation, says the National Textiles Association (NTA).NTA reported
that in 2010 it created 10,000 jobsand exported 19% more garments.
Meanwhile, the once popular "Made in China" is declining.
Hong Kong's Lever Style is a Shenzhen-based factory,making clothes for US
brands like CK and Banana Republic.Cheap labor once brought high profits to
the factory.But recently the rising costs caused headaches to its owners.
Stanley Szeto, CEO of Lever Style
Szeto said that in addition to improving the procedures,he is considering
to relocate the factory.
Boston Consulting predicates thataccording to China's price and inflation
trend,the salary of Chinese labor will rise 80%in the next five years,which
is disastrous to cheap labor factories.The only way out might be to move
out of China.
Dan Harris, a legal consultant in China, thinks that
the conflicts between migrant workers and policein Guangzhou in June showed
authorities' change of policy.
Dan Harris, Harris and Morel Lawyers
Harris thinks conflicts between people and authoritiesdue to China's
political system do worry foreign businessmenabout the instability as a
result of intensified social conflicts.
U.S. Department of Commerce reports thatU.S. investment in China dropped
22% in H1 2011.U.S. clothing imports from Vietnam and Indonesia
surpassedChina, indicating the industry' outsourcing is exiting China.
NTD reporters Song Meixin and Xiao Yan 2011-08-03
09:47:21http://www.ntdtv.com/xtr/gb/2011/08/03/a568615.html.-【禁闻】美成衣
加工业流出中国-回归本土.html
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